Tuesday, June 19, 2007

The Final Hoorah

It is around my seventh hour spent in the Minneapolis airport and I have been up for about 22 hours so far. I also have only experienced sunlight for the last 22 hours. WE have around 3 more hours until our plane leaves the Midwest and then another 3 until we are back in Missoula. Sean and I played rummy with Minnesota "Loons of the World" cards, I have read a lot, played on the Mac, thought, slept on the dirty carpet, and watched some news. It isn't easy occupying yourself in an airport if you are broke and really tired. Part of me really wants to be in Missoula just so I can get out of this semi-prison, but most of me wishes I was back in my dorm room or at Old Towns Square walking around. I am content with my trip, and probably had the best experiences of my lifetime. I have traveled before, but for whatever reason, I gained so much more out of my 3 weeks in Prague then my month long backpacking trip in Costa Rica.

I found myself getting a little emotional while sitting and playing cards with Sean. Maybe it was because I was losing miserably, but I really think it is because I have a huge fear that all I have gained in Prague is going to go right out the window when I step foot on Missoula ground. I am going to try my best to maintain this beautiful confidence I left with. I have lived almost my entire 21 years in the small, mountain valley town. And as much as I love being from such a friendly, gorgeous place, it was this experience in Prague that made me want to leave so badly. I don't want to leave anything specific. I love my family, I adore my friends, I want to live in the mountains, but I think it is time for me to experience a new life. Start over. I want to go to a completely different place where I am uncomfortable and awkward and get the chance to start a new chapter where no one knows me and I don't know them.

The Saturday before our departure there was a minority music festival called the Refu Festival. (Refugee Festival) Minority groups from all over Eastern Europe were there. There was food, clothes, toys, pictures and lots of music. Something I have noticed is people do not dance in open, outside areas like parks or squares. During the festival, only 3 people danced, one old lady and two small children under 10 years old. Most of the audience was white. You can tell they like what they are hearing, but they don't let it flow and just break out of their shells. At the first festival I went to, the Khamaro Festival, people were all about dancing, but most of the people attending the concerts were Roma.

For the last couple of days in Prague I spent my time shopping, (I made my partner Ales take me to some "hot spot" shopping spots for a couple of hours when we had a break during the festival on Saturday. I told him I would do the same for him when he got to Missoula. Ha. I'm sure he appreciated it.), and saying good-bye to some people I may never see again. I spent all day Sunday with a friend whom I got really close to during the trip. WE spent much of the day in a park near our dorm hall. I had no idea it even existed. It was almost like a different world. You walk through these tall, white gates and there are 2 dirt, walking paths, one to the left and one to the right. In between them lies a giant rectangle of grass. Surrounding them is a forest full of walking paths and tall, narrow deciduous trees. At the of the giant rectangle there is a huge soccer field and a monastery. I know I would have gone there more to read and relax if I had known about it. I am glad it was my last day trip. It is very different from typical Prague.

At night, Zach, Sean , and I went to the 'hospudka' (little pub) to grab a few beers before we went to bed. The hospudka is the "dorm bar" i wrote about in one of my earlier blogs. WE spent so much of our time there it was only appropriate to spend our last night there. The waitresses did not speak a bit of English, and I think we all shared a very unique relationship with them. We never knew whether they wanted to kill us every time we made our way into the pub, or whether they actually liked us. I would like to think the latter, but I do know they would get frustrated at our large bills and lack of Czech language skills.

Our flight left at 7 in the morning on Monday. Mary decided to go to the airport at midnight and sleep there because after that the next bus to take us to the airport would only come at 5 a.m. She didn't want to be rushed. Israel, Zach, and I decided to take our chances. We were afraid we wouldn't have time to get checked in and go through security because it was a 40-minute bus ride. Sean was going to go with us but he took off at around 2 in the morning (why? I have no clue) on a different bus and experience his last adventure with the public transportation system. We had plenty of time to feed ourselves with $5 sandwiches and $5 twelve-ounce cans of Coke. No joke. It was a total rip off. The Czech airport was quite expensive, surprisingly, since the rest of the city was dirt cheap. I mean, the beer was cheaper then the water. And I am not kidding when I write that.

So, back to paragraph one. I am still sitting in the Minneapolis airport, but I have now been up for 23 hours, I have been here for 8 hours, I have 2 more before I will be seated on a plane, and I will be in Missoula in hopefully 5. The plan is the Union Club or the Rhino right when we get off the plane just so we can show how hardcore we can be. Going to a bar after being up for almost 30 hours sounds like a horrible idea, but I can never say no to a challenge so if anyone sees me on Monday it will be me with my face planted on a table after passing out from half of a $1.25 pint of PBR at the Rhino.

Prague was fun and life changing. Thanks for the comments and for reading this. I had a lot of fun with it. I think I am going to continue one, and I will send a link for my first one, but I won't send emails every time I write one, I promise. That was just for my special trip. :)

Take care and Cua,

Ashley

"Dobje Bobje"

Friday, June 15, 2007

We had deadline? Wha?

It is Friday and we are all freaking out. Our deadline was yesterday and none of us have our stories ready to go. Ales and I have an excuse because we have to attend a festival tomorrow, but I wish we were a little further into our project then we are. There will be a lot of writing tonight! Surprisingly, I will end up writing a good chunk of the article because the Czech students understood we were all writers and we didn't a pair off like Mary and I thought we were going to. It ended up working out fine, and I really enjoy working with Ales, but I will be writing a lot more then I expected. Hey, it's good for the resume, eh?

Although all of the Czechs speak English fluently, editing their pieces will be a challenge. The English is hard to understand and it doesn't run smoothly. I want to be sure not to take away from what he is writing because I couldn't understand. I have to be sure to sit down with Ales rather then take it home because I don't know how productive I will be without him there. The goal is to get the stories done before we leave to Montana at 4 in the morning here. :P I have a feeling we may not make the Sunday deadline, but we will email each other during the 3 free days we have before the Czechs arive in Missoula. I nominated myself as photo manager for the group so I have a whole new responsibility I am looking forward to when we get back. It will be my one last chance to control people in the photo world before I have to get a real job that makes me money so I can live on my own again.

Tonight my Slovakian dorm friend Jan asked a couple of us to go to a barbeque at on of the dorms. I didn't know they had BBQs here so it should be interesting to see how a Missoula BBQ and a Prague BBQ compare. I can imagine the meat is a lot bigger, thicker and more sausagy here. (blah!) But a Missoula burger would kick a Czech burgers ass any day of the week. Ha! Well, I think I have hit rambling point so I better get to that story I have been working on for the 3 weeks I have been here. :)

Cua,

Ashley

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Homebody... in the gross dorms of Prague

I feel completely at home here. No, I do not know the language. No, I still don't know over 90% of the city and I am still never sure if I am headed the right way when I get on the tram, but I also finally realized I am not going to conquer the language or master the city in 3 weeks and for some reason, when I finally layed it to rest, I felt better.

Yesterday all I did was stay around my dorm area. I read, I slept, I sifted through my pics, I wrote an outline. I know it sounds like a boring day, and you are probably wondering why I would just want to stay in my dorm when I am in such a gorgeous city as Prague. For a day I wanted to challenge myself and see if I could function without needing the entertainment the city has to offer. I think I have seen what I have wanted to see in Prague and taken most of the touristy pictures I wanted to take. Now I am just enjoying the relationships I have formed with other people from different countries. It has been so nice to meet people who come from such a different place, and be able to relate whether it be because of simple things like our tastes in music or because our sense of humors match or we come from the same family life.

I have always been interested in sociology and I have debated maybe going to graduate school for it, but I have had so many people give me negative comments on getting a masters in sociology. After being here, I know if I do go back to school it will be for sociology. I am fascinated by people and the way they interact especially in different cultures. (I will always be a photographer, but getting a degree will give me the option to teach later in life)

Everywhere I walk around Prague you see couples hugging, kissing, or making out. And, although this is a huge generalization, it seems like the interaction is more about love then sexual attraction. I don't see that in Montana. I think our society shies away from public affection. When I walk around here I turn to ogle at every couple I see sharing a moment. I have realized it is okay to show your feelings for someone. It shouldn't have to be a secret. And it took another culture for me to realize that. There are also simple things like the difference in fashion. If someone in Montana even wore half of what someone wore here people would laugh and gossip. There is something about seeing different cultures to make you realize that it is okay to be different. I have always been a little different and sometimes it hurts my self-confidence. I don't want to sound too dramatic, but my confidence has sky-rocketted since I have been here. I believe it is because I have to be completely independent without many friends or familiararities to get me by. I was able to let go of the rules back home and adjust to a life here. And just to see that people interact differently in other parts of the world makes me realize that there are no rules. We are who we are, and knowing that makes me feel better.

Well, I just analyzed myself again. I haven't wrote in a journal for years, and I this feels exactly like a journal to me. I definitely think I am going to continue blogging when I get back to Missoula. No worries. I will not send you all emails every time I write a blog. I don't think I will have any friends if I attempted that. :)

Also, my project (the reason I am here...sometimes I forget that) is going well. The last project we have is on Saturday. There is a 3-band Roma festival. My photo story will turn out to be more of a photo essay. We never got the chance to just hang out with one band for a long period of time, but I have been to several different events involving the dancing and music of the Roma. So, when I put them all together, I think the essay will read well. Ales will be writing the story, and I will help him when he is done. I just wanted to let all of you know I haven't quit my project because my blogs are more about how I feel that what I have done. I have done a lot, but this whole trip has really opened me up and cleared my mind. I am feeling so great about life, the best I have felt in over a year, and I want to share that with everyone. But, my project is rolling along smoothly. So for anyone concerned about that (Henni :) ) it is going very well.

Well, for now, it will be a day of wandering because I have no obligations. I might try the McRoyale Sean wrote about in his blog. I figure I don't eat McDonalds in Missoula so it will be a new experience. Great logic.

Cua,

AShley

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Hippin' Around

I have been avoiding the mass chaos that is Prague downtown for a few days so sorry I haven't updated any of you in a little while. Besides, I haven't been up to anything extremely blog worthy so I don't feel too badly about it.

Well, on Wednesday and Thursday I milled around town and saw more of the city. Nothing terribly exciting happened, but it was a good chance to relax a little, take my mind off the project, and just enjoy my surroundings. A big chunk of what I will be doing starts today. Ales and I are going to a small town outside of Prague to hang out with a local Roma band who have jam sessions every Sunday. It will be my first real opportunity to take pics of the culture and the music. I have been to a couple of shows at some clubs, but I haven't been able to shoot an 'at home' session so it will be more fun to get personal with some of the band members.

On Friday our group went to a town about one-third the size of Prague called Brno (pronounced Burno). The train ride took about 4 hours to get there, and it was quite exhausting. Sean, Zach, and I hung out with some of our dorm friends the night before and they showed us a student club that sits right below a dorm hall about a block away. Needless to say, we had a blast, and were quite dazed in the morning. But we gathered ourselves, and enjoyed the day and slept on the train on our way over.

In Brno we saw the Roma Culture Museum. It is the only Roma culture museum in all of Europe. It wasn't anything terribly fancy, but there was a lot of Roma artwork and they showed us a video of some of the music from Roma communities in Slovakia. After we watched the video, we went downstairs and found a class where Roma children were learning how to dance. It was very cute. One of the kids asked Israel if he knew how to dance, Israel said yes, and the kid asked him why he wasn't on the dance floor then. They all had a blast, and I think they enjoyed having an audience.

So, my last week in Prague starts today, and I am kind of sad. I have finally gotten used to the public transportation and the way of living, and it makes me want to stay longer. I have enjoyed the relationships I have formed with all of the Czech students and even with all of the UM students who I barely knew before I got here. I have met several people from the dorms who I have had fun with, and I was even asked out on a date. It has been great for me to see a completely different way of life and I also have been happy that have I have been able to adjust so well and branch outside of my closed box. I don't think I would ever have any trouble traveling abroad. I've noticed that I am a lot more extroverted than I thought. So, once I am able to officially graduate from the UM I have a feeling I will be looking at other places besides the states to find work. And I don't think I would mind if it were in Prague.

Cua, (I have been spelling it wrong the entire time....)

Ashley

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Should anyone have to tolerate racism even if they aren't from here?

Well, an interview Ales and I had set up got cancelled so here I am, once again, informing all of you on my daily life in Prague. Please don't get too sick of me. I miss having people to talk to. :)

Yesterday was a bit less hectic and more peaceful. The drive to the small town Most was so much more familiar then anything I have experienced in the last week. I know I have only been gone for a week and half, but I have found myself missing the mountains and the small-town feel. Believe me, I love it here, but yesterday was refreshing. The drive over was more of what I expected most of Europe to look like. It is very green and hilly, and every once in a while we saw small towns full of cottages nestled up against the mounds. It took us about an hour and a half to get Most. It isn't a small, cottage town, but it definitely is nothing like Prague.

Our purpose for going to Most wasn't for the scenic tour, but to find the a place in the town where a lot of Roma live. We drove around the town for a while and couldn't find anything so Ales asked a taxi driver where the Roma "hung out." I thought it was an awkward question to ask a stranger on the street. If you think about it, it is like asking a taxi driver in Missoula where all of the Native Americans hang out. But, the taxi driver was very receptive and led us there. Ales had never been to this area of this town before and parked his car around 10 minutes away from the area. I have never seen anything like what I saw when we walked into the Roma neighborhood.

People were all over the streets. I mean, everywhere. I don't think anyone was in their flat. Maybe the elderly, but every woman, man, and child decided they would enjoy the day outside. There were several flats sprawled throughout the small neighborhood. They were very dirty and messy with laundry and junk hanging off the balconies. Garbage was scattered all over the streets and lawns. Children were playing with music tape reel, teenagers were playing soccer or walking around in large armies, women were chatting on the benches or trying to find their children, and the men all seemed to huddle in big circles on the sidewalks. It was quite intimidating walking through the area. Everyone started as we walked by, and because I don't know the language, I was unaware of what people were saying, but I had a suspicious feeling they were talking about us. I asked Ales if taking out my camera would be a good idea. He was hesitant at first, but said if I'm going to do it it will make no difference if I do it now instead of later. Only after a couple of pictures did a man start yelling at me. Ales went over to the man and calmed him down. The man said if I didn't put my camera away he would call the police. I don't know how valid that would be, but to respect the community I put it away. As we were walking back feeling very unwelcome, several people came up to us and said it was fine for me to have a camera there. One guy even asked if I would take his picture. I think we just caught the other guy on a bad day. I didn't walk around and take pictures after the man yelled at us becaue I didn't want to stir up any chaos or hard feelings.

Even though things didn't work out exactly how we had planned, I am still happy we drove all that way even if we only spent five minutes in the neighborhood. I have never seen anything like that before and I have been itching to see the people and culture we have been studying for so long. I really had no expectation going into the area. It has been such an eye-opening experience being here, esp. here for a journalism project on the Roma. I have met quite a few people whether it be in my dorm or on the tram, and every time I tell them what I am doing I am shocked at the immediate reaction someone gives me. I have heard some of the most racist comments I have ever heard in my life here. I am not from here, so I am still maintaining a very open mind, but I have found myself getting frustrated because I can't grasp such a prejudice mentality. It is hard. I think all I can do is respond in a positive way. If I can make a difference in just a couple of people's lives here I will be happy.

Ciao,

Ashley

Monday, June 4, 2007

Goooaaaallll!

Yesterday I got to do one of the coolest things I have ever done in my life. Jan, our Czech prof, is a huge Bohemian football (soccer) team fan and took us all to a game. It was one of the final games of the season so there were a lot crazy Czech football enthusiasts with green and white fan wear from head to toe. Scarves with the team logo are quite popular. I kind of want to get one before I leave. Anyway, Jan made it possible for me to shoot the game. They gave me a bright, neon-yellow vest that said FOTO on the back. I got to stand with all of the press photographers for the entire game. It was wild. I am so happy I was able to do that. Not only for my portfolio, but for the experience. Unlike the U.S. where the fans' energy is fed off of the bright flashing signs and music, they just have a colossal amount of spirit that lasts the entire game. One side of the stadium would shout, "Green!" and the other side would shout, "White!" and this is quite a large stadium. Of course, they were speaking in Czech so I had no clue what they were saying, but Zach told me later. I am sure they were saying other things, but that was something he picked up. I love shooting sports and I love the intense energy it brings so it was a lot of fun to get do something like that.

After the game, Jan took us to another neighborhood where every Sunday he meets up with his buddies and plays a game that involves a net, a soccer ball, a tennis court, and no hands. They call it soccer/tennis/volleyball. (I don't know if that is really what they call it, but I think it is the best thing to call it) The rules follow typical volleyball rules, but instead of using your hands to pass the ball around and over the net, you use your feet and head. It takes a lot of skill to spike a ball with your foot, trust me. During Jan's smoke break they let a couple of us play them. It actually isn't as hard as it looks. I was by no mean a professional, but I held my own. Zach and I were talking about practicing more and coming back next Sunday to scare them a little. I am confident that I will be the next olympic gold winning soccer/tennis/volleyball player. :) We have pictures of us playing. Once I can figure out how to post pics here, I will definitely put some of those up. We look ridiculous.

Today, Ales and I are going to a small town outside of Prague. About an hour and a half a way by car. I guess it is one of the rougher parts of Prague and has a high Roma population. All of the Czechs seemed a bit cautious and worried when Ales said that is where we are going. I haven't been exposed to much natural Roma setting since I have been here so I am excited to see how the Roma live since we have learning so much about them. Ideally, we want to find a musical family, but I don't know how easy that will be by just walking around the village. Ales compared this place as a "ghetto" in Prague. It will be good for pictures, and hopefully we will meet some contacts.

Until then, I hope everyone is doing well. I will keep you posted about my time in Prague if I come back alive!

Ciao,

Ashley

Saturday, June 2, 2007

Where Am I?

European women are absolutely beautiful. I feel like such a "Plain Jane" every time I walk out of my dorm room. I think I was fairly plain in Missoula, too, but I could get away with it a little better. The valued beauty here is so different from America. No make-up and really funky fashion. I find myself wishing I was from here so I could wear skirts over my jeans and have streaked-short hair and get away with it.

Well, last night I had quite an adventure. I stayed at the Roma in Media conference longer then my U.S./Czech partners so I had no clue where they were when the conference got over. I decided to take the 20-minute tram ride back to the dorms to see if they were there and could not find them. (Later in the night, I found out I knocked on the wrong doors, and Sean was actually there....) I thought maybe they went to the same club we went to the night before so I boldly got back on the tram and headed back into the city around 8 p.m. I ended up spending an enjoyable night by myself listening to beautiful Romanian music. It is so great. I want to bring back a lot of the music here because I don't know if I will be able to find it in the U.S. I am falling in love with it. When we have our infamous late night dance parties in Missoula you know what we will be listening to for a while, just so you know. :)

After the show (10:30) I attempted to make my way back to the tram. It took me about an hour to find my way back. I have no sense of direction here. I am an expert at getting lost. I think it is because I am not used to spending this much time in a huge city, and I just can't seem to figure it out. I have some base points I recognize and if I get lost I ask people where the Charles Bridge or Narodni Street is. I am hopeless. But, because I couldn't find my way back, I got to see a completely different part of the city, and I got to see Prague at night. It is so stunning. I haven't had time to take pics of all the building yet, and I think when I get the time I am going to do it at night. It is amazing.

Today Ales and I are going to try and get backstage passes to a Romani concert at the same club I went to last night. We are most likely going to focus our story on the dance/music culture of the Romani. It is really the only thing they have kept alive since really assimilating in the last few years. I'm excited becaue I am falling in love with it. If tonight works out, I will have attended 3 Romani/gypsy music shows. I think this show will be more of a fun side story, though. Next week we are let out into the field to report. No classes and no obligatory meeting times. Ales and I haven't found a focus point yet, but I think we will be right on track starting Monday.

Well, I am on my own again in Prague. (Don't worry, Mom, it is 2:30 here :) ) I think I may try to go to the castle on the other side of the river. I haven't really explored that area of the city yet. And, yes, I will most likely get lost, but I am the master at finding my way back. I figure I am going to lose around 3-5 pounds a day from all of my walking from trying to find my way back. But, then again, the beer is heavy so maybe it will all just balance out. :) Thank you everyone for commenting on my blog. I really enjoy hearing from you! Please take care of yourselves, and please keep in touch. And, since a few of you asked, a Eurodog is pretty much the same thing as an American hot dog. A little spicier and the bun is a bit different. They take a small half a loaf of French bread, punch a hole in it, squirt some ketchup and mustard into the hole, and insert the hot dog. It is kind of fun. I had a Eurodog for every meal for a couple of days because I had no money, and they were tasty and cheap. I might hold off on them for a little while. I don't think my stomach appreciatted it too much....

Ciao,

Ashley